How to Build a Table Saw Cabinet

I'm Brad Rodriguez and today I'm gonna show you how to make a storage cabinet to hold everything that goes with your table saw.

The blades, the wrenches, the feather boards, the throat plates, the jigs, everything everythig that's related to your table saw all in one space and it's even got some cool sliding door features.

I'll show you exactly how I did it stay tuned.

I was in dire need of this cabinet since my table saw storage had devolved into this pile of mess which just seemed to grow weekly.

The cabinet is made from two sheets of three-quarter inch plywood.

I started by breaking down the full sheets to a manageable size in my driveway Using the Kreg Accu-cut track and my cordless circular saw.

It works especially well on cold nights under the spotlight so your neighbors can wonder what the heck you're up to this time.

I cut the sides top and bottom from the smaller sheets per my cut list.

I'll have a link below to the plans for this build.

They include the full cut list parts diagram and step-by-step instructions with 3D drawings.

Like most of my shop projects I'm using pocket hole joinery for the assembly.

I drilled the pocket holes in the underside of the top and the bottom panels using my k4 jig.

I joined the tops to the sides using some long clamps to hold everything in place.

You can also use another clamp in the middle if you've got an extra one laying around.

I attached the bottom panel using the same method.

I'm using 1-1/4 inch pocket screws for these joints and throughout the rest of the project.

The cabinet has vertical sliding panels on the outside with five drawers in the middle.

I started by cutting the sliding panels to size on the table saw and then I cut the four vertical dividers to width.

I trimmed the dividers to size on my miter saw to match the actual opening of the cabinet.

I drill pocket holes in the ends of the dividers to attach them into the top and the bottom of the cabinet.

The sliding panels will both be accessed from the left so the dividers on the left of the cabinet will hold the drawer slides for that panel.

Since the sliding panel opening is just so narrow I had to mount the slides to the dividers before attaching them to the cabinet.

I measured up from the bottom, and I marked a line for the top and the bottom of each divider.

Then I took apart the drawer slides, and I mounted the stationary part to the dividers.

I pre-drilled and used five eighths of an inch panhead screws to attach them in two spots to each divider.

To get them lined up properly I centered the line then I drew on the mounting holes for the drawer slide.

I used a 1/16 of an inch set back on the front of the slides, and I mounted the back of the slides flush with the back of the divider using a scrap piece of wood for reference.

I mount of the dividers from the front of the cabinet I lined up the front divider with the front face of the cabinet and use a small spacer block to give us a consistent spacing from the side.

The back divider stands off a bit from the back of the cabinet when installed.

I laid down lines on the sliding panel for the drawer slides.

I just subtracted an eighth of an inch from what I used on the dividers for clearance on the bottom.

I pre-drilled and attached the slides as before simmering the line on the mounting slots.

I also used the side of the cabinet to reference the slide against the front of the panel.

I lined up the panel and I slid it into the drawer slides And it was slightly surprised to see it fit perfectly on the first go.

The sliding panel on the right side is mounted directly to the side of the cabinet, which makes install a lot easier I flipped the cabinet over on its side and I laid out the lines for the slide just as I did before and then I pre-drilled and screwed them in place.

I did the same for the sliding panel and it went in easily with no fuss.

I flipped the cabinet back right-side up, and I installed the dividers for the side.

I used the same spacer block technique, and I attach the front divider to the top and bottom flush with the front face.

For the back divider I marked a line on the cabinet the same distance as the other back divider and screwed it in place.

If you're a little off front to back on this one it's not a big deal.

Next it was time to move on to the drawers.

I cut the sides for the drawers to length I left the fronts and the backs a little bit long.

Then I ripped all the parts to the final drawer heights of the five drawers.

There's a deep base drawer of mid size drawer above that and then three smaller drawers on the top.

This will give me a variety of storage options for large items like jigs down to the small things like push sticks and throat plates But making drawers I always use referential measurements for the fronts and the backs.

I measured the drawer opening then I subtracted one inch for the drawer slides.

I set my miter saw stop to this mesh, which will be the total width of the drawer Then I used two scraps of the plywood that I'm using to represent the sides of the drawers.

Now cutting the fronts and the backs using this method gives me the perfect sizing without having to measure and calculate the fractions for the undersized plywood.

I'm using the quickest and easiest drawer construction method I found for these drawers.

As your pocket holes in all the front's and the backs and these holes are on the outside of the parts.

So they won't be seen once they're assembled.

The longest part of this method is just drilling all these holes really.

I put glue on the drawer sides and then I square them up and clamp them to the front in the back.

I screw the sides in place to each drawer then I set them off to the side and batch out the rest of the parts.

I cut the bottoms to the exact size of the drawers using quarter inch plywood.

And these drawers will hold fairly light items so quarter-inch is just gonna be fine.

I flip the drawers upside down then I apply a bead of glue all around the perimeter.

Then I line up the bottom panel with the front of the drawer making sure it's flush on the sides as well I secure the front of the panel with brad nails.

Then I use a square on the back outside corner of the drawer and pull the whole thing into square.

I nail the back into place now the drawer is locked square.

I finish up the sides with Brad nails as well.

Thank you sure to keep the nails away from the edge for the next step.

The final step is the bevel at the bottom of the plywood with a chamfer bit in my router.

I set the bit to just remove the quarter inch plywood.

Now this is purely for looks.

But the bevel edge makes the plywood bottom really disappear from the side view and you have a solid easy to make drawer that looks great.

With the drawers done, I started installing the drawer slides.

I laid out the drawers and the slides to make installation as easy as possible.

I started by using a large spacer to position the bottom drawer slide.

I pre-drilled and attached it with screws just like before.

Using the referential measurement idea I stack the spacer on top of the drawer slide and install the next slide.

Clamping the spacer in place with a quick clamp keeps it nice and steady So it won't fall while you're trying to screw the slide in place.

I learned that one from experience.

After the bottom two slides I switched over to a smaller spacer for the top three slides.

When the drawer slides are all spaced tightly using spacers really works well.

I use the same spacers and technique for the other side and this gives a perfect relative alignment for both sides.

Just make sure there's no dust or woodchips in the way the spacer is when you start the process.

To mount the drawers I started off with a quarter-inch plywood spacer on the bottom to hold the drawer off of the cabinet.

I pulled the slides out and flushed it up with the front of the drawer using a scrap block of wood for reference.

Then I secured the slides to the drawer in two spots on each side This locks the slides in place.

And then I remove the drawer and put a third screw in the back mounting holes to secure the slides Like I mentioned I designed the drawers and slides for easy installation, each drawer space 3/4 of an inch from the next one And I just used the same spacers from before but they're now laid flat on the lower drawer To position each of the following drawers above it.

Now some planning on the front end makes drawer install a lot faster and less hectic than it can be False drawer fronts will finish off the front this cabinet nicely.

I'm using a single panel of plywood to get a continuous grain look.

I cut the panel to size and then I cut off the left and the right vertical fronts.

Then I cut each drawer front to size.

now this approach gives you a built-in eighth of an inch reveal between all the pieces from the blade kerf.

I started in the middle with the drawers.

I drilled two oversized holes in the front of each drawer, and I starting at the bottom.

I attached the drawer front with two screws from the inside.

The oversized holes allow for a little bit of adjustment to get the reveals just right when all the drawers are installed.

To get a standard reveal between each drawer front I used an eighth of an inch spacer laid on top of the drawer front.

Beneath it Now I just repeated this process all the way up until I ran into a small issue.

I cut the drawer fronts a little differently than the plan I drew up and added up to the top drawer interfering with the drawer front on the one right below it just a little bit.

So I took the drawer front out and remove the slides and then scooted them down and quarter of an inch.

I did this by using my combination square and just setting it for a quarter inch larger than the original measurement I wanted to show you this as an easy adjustment if you end up getting the spacing on the drawers mixed up after you've cut the drawer fronts.

You can easily recover just moving the slides up and down on the drawer.

Which is pretty easy.

Instead of just pocket screwing the vertical fronts to the sliding panels I cut a small front piece and pocket screw that at a right angle on that sliding panel and this gave me a large reference surface to mount the false front.

I drilled an oversized hole on the front piece and attached it with screws from the inside.

I repeated the same process on the right side and attached a front piece and then the false front.

At this point I flipped the cabinet around and installed a full 3/4 inch back.

This thick back lets you square up the cabinet and lock it in place.

What I should have done is install the back after mounting the drawers.

But before I had mounted the drawer fronts the cabinet was racked a little bit so I had to adjust all the drawer fronts after locking the back into place.

I used the Kreg cabinet hardware jig to layout and mount the drawer pulls.

It makes installing the poles at a consistent location quick and easy.

It also works for the vertical mounted poles like what I needed to do on the sliding panels.

I just adjusted the jig and used a backer board to prevent blowout on the panel and I mounted the poles with extra long screws.

I took all the drawers out and flipped the cabinet over and attached some three inch casters to make it mobile in the shop.

And the last thing to do is to lay out the sliding panels and make some tool holders.

I wanted the left side panel to hold my most used items like blades changing wrenches in my push sticks.

So I laid out the accessories and marked where I wanted each one.

I made a little mounting cleats by gluing some 5/8 of an inch dowels into some scrap plywood.

I attached the cleats this lighting panel, and then I stalled it back in the cabinet.

I cleared out the area in front of my table saw rolled it into place, and I was ready to load it up.

Now this cabinet takes advantage of that huge unused space under my saw I makes me smile just seeing this nice cabinet here instead of that pile of junk.

I'd highly recommend doing this if you're storing a bunch of stuff on your floor like I was.

I want to give a big THANK YOU to Kreg Tool for sponsoring today's project.

There's a link down below in the description to all the different Kreg Ttols that I use and the jig's they make things go a lot easier in this build so go check them out.

If you want to build your own table saw storage cabinet there's a link down below in the description that the plans that are available for this.

I've got step-by-step instructions 3d parts diagrams and everything that you'll need to build it If you're not subscribed to the channel already I'd love to have you guys part of the team and until next time guys, get out there build something awesome!.

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